woolrich donna modelli Mountain conditions
Focus Monte Bianco: These days we have good conditions for Traversée des Diables.
Beware, however, of the conditions at higher altitudes: the storms of recent days and the cold currents taken on Sunday have created particularly dangerous conditions of “snow blown snow” (particularly on the French side of the Dome du Gouter, north of the Mont Blanc du Tacul And Mont Maudit) that require great attention and special experience in cramponnage.
In this regard, there are some problems in the last few rappels, those to get off the bivouac, where we recommend 2 ropes of 50 m, as a rock collapse struck some spit
Due to the complete fusion of the snowfields that provided water to Rifugio Gonella, the managers were forced to close the hut in advance.
We point out that this is an isolated case and that the other shelters will remain open until the dates set. For more information, see the “info huts” page of our site:With regard to conditions in the high mountains, the violent storms of yesterday and Saturday did not substantially alter the conditions of the main routes. However, we recommend you to check the weather forecasts (the most reliable ones are on our homepage), especially the day before your trip, remembering that summer thunderstorms can form very quickly, especially over reliefs.
There has been a lot of wind at high altitude and we suppose that in some areas there have been heavy snowfalls. The wind should continue to blow for the whole day and calm down somewhat tomorrow. At the moment, it is advisable to wait for the snow to stabilize and the rock to dry.
Some info about the amount of snow fallen (snow limit above 2500m).
40 cm at Gouter hut, about 40 cm at Torino hut, Col Flambeau and Cosmiques hut; all Aiguilles de Chamonix are covered with snow, also on the Envers des Aiguilles side; about 20 cm on top of the Grands Montets.
Between 10 and 20 cm of snow and strong wind. The conditions have not changed much but it is extremely cold and the rocky parts are covered with snow.
Snow dropped before last weekend has stabilized and is virtually disappearing from the south facing slopes where the conditions has now returned to the situation we had before the perturbation. The rocky routes have returned perfectly practicable, while the ice / mixed routes have had a few days of glory, but by now, the ice is emerging.
Attention: In the last few days, several rock collapses, even quite significant, have been reported in various areas of Aosta Valley, probably due to the degradation of permafrost: in particular, there have been evidence of collapses in Grivola, Aiguille Noire de Peuterey and in the Triolet basin (North face of the Greuvetta). It is therefore advisable to pay close attention if you decide to climb itineraries that might potentially be subject to instability (classical routes, paths on highly articulated rock structures, etc.).
Focus Monte Rosa: From the latest news, the normal route to Polluce has dried up, while the West face of Castor has returned to being rather icy (it is advisable to be very cautious and not to form big groups 2 or 3 pers. max). Lyskamm traverse over has been done several times but in quite difficult conditions,
with very sharp ridges and emerging ice.
Focus Monte Bianco: the Kuffner ridge, the Diables traverse and the Sperone della Brenva have been done. For the Kuffner, the snow was still not completely transformed, but the track it is pretty good.
On the Brenva and above all on the descent from the Trois Monts, we have reported great difficulties in recent days: the track was done in 40 50 cm of fresh snow, 20 30 on the Tacul.
As for Satellites, Dent du Giant, and Rochefort’s ridge, conditions are good even if you have to be very cautious on the Rochefort for the particular conditions (sharp ridges, ice).
As far as the areas of the Chamonix area are concerned, we refer you to our friends of La Chamoniarde:General situation: recent precipitations have deposited a modest amount of snow at altitude (maximum accumulation of around 10 cm for some sectors) without thus changing the conditions of the main itineraries. For today, in the afternoon, more intense phenomena are expected, which will require a detailed check of the conditions in the various sectors. At this moment we can report the following situation:
Monte Rosa: Castor’s west wall has a rather open bergschrund and the ridge to the summit is pretty sharp, while the normal route has a slightly more sharp ridge than usual. The route to the Naso del Lyskamm from the west has many ice pleats and it is normally walked on the rocky side on the left of the wall. Even the climb to West Lyskamm from the Rifugio Quintino Sella has some parts of ice that oblige to use the rocky section on the right of the wall. Last but not least, the Lyskamm traverse has a pretty precarious condition with cornices on both the right and the left side.
Gran Paradiso: Fallen about 10 cm of snow, several groups each day starting from both the Chabod Refuge and Vittorio Emanuele; The route is largely on uncovered ice. The North Wall is all in ice.
Mont Blanc: irrelevant precipitation, several groups directed towards the Dent du Géant, some at Rochefort ridge which continues to be rather delicate (sharp with ice tracts), as well as towards the Vierge and to the Aiguille du Midi.
The heat and the very high isotherm of these days are rapidly changing the conditions of the high mountain. At night, the refreezing is quite good, but it is highly recommended to pay attention to the ice bridge thinning. As reported by the Guides and huts managers, the problem is slightly more serious in the Mont Blanc area, while on the Mont Rose the heavier spring snowfalls allow regular frequentation of the itineraries, despite conditions are comparable to those typical of mid July. In detail: Various ropes on Castor, traversing from the Guide di Ayas to Quintino Sella Huts; Numerous groups to the Colle del Lys and the Capanna Margherita (some even with skis); Two groups attempting the Lyskamm traverse preferred to give up for the presence of ice.
With the heat of these days and the very high isotherm, it is essential to pay close attention when walking on the glacier: the snow bridges are very thin and even following the track the risk of breakthrough is considerable. We are now in the most critical period; in a few weeks much of what is unstable will collapse and thus be visible, but so far be very careful.
Monte Bianco area: the Kuffner Ridge has been climbed by a couple of ropes and it has been reported that snow is not completely transformed, but with a better refreezing (waiting for lower night temperatures) it should be fine. It should be noted, however,
that the conditions of the Rochefort Ridge are more demanding than it may seem at first glance. Monte Rosa area: the huts are now all open and the first weekend saw a good frequentation of the main routes that seem to be in good condition at the moment. We look forward to more detailed information in the coming days with meteorological evolution.